How to Go to an Izakaya or Standing Bar in Tokyo: Otoshi, Ordering and Yokocho Alleys
Published: 2026-10-15
An izakaya is a must for a Tokyo night out. We answer the big questions, like "what is otoshi?" and "how do I order?", and show you how to enjoy the bar alleys of Shinjuku and Akabane.
The short answer
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| What's otoshi? | A small dish served when you sit down. It works like a table charge and is almost always billed |
| How do I order? | Call staff with "sumimasen", or use the tablet or QR code at your table |
| How do I pay? | At the register when you leave. Some standing bars take payment with each order |
| Can I smoke? | Most restaurants in Tokyo are non-smoking inside, though some small bars allow it |
From the door to the bill
IzakayaThe Japanese way: order lots of dishes and drinks and share them.- At the entrance, show staff how many people you are with your fingers.
- When you sit, you'll get a wet towel and otoshi. It's usually charged even though you didn't order it.
- Start by ordering drinks. In Japan there's even a phrase, "toriaezu biru": beer to start.
- Order food a little at a time, over several rounds, and share it.
- Pay at the register when you leave. Some places find it hard to split the bill.
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"Nomihodai" plans offer all-you-can-drink for a set time, often used for group bookings.
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Ordering tablets can often be switched to English.
Bar-hopping in a yokocho
Omoide Yokocho (Shinjuku)Right by Shinjuku Station's west exit: an old alley full of yakitori smoke.
Shinjuku Golden GaiNearly 200 tiny bars packed together, each with its own character.
Nonbei Yokocho (Shibuya)A small lantern-lit drinking alley by Shibuya Station.
AkabaneFamous for cheap "senbero" drinking, with some bars open from the morning. Ichibangai and OK Yokocho are favorites.🙅
Many tiny bars in Golden Gai and similar alleys charge a seat fee, and some don't allow photos inside. Check the signs at the door before going in.
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Yokocho bars are very small, so leave big bags behind.
What's a standing bar?
- A casual place where you drink standing up. Many people have just one drink and go.
- Some are "cash on delivery", where you pay with each order, and some are cash-only.
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For more food streets, see our Tokyo street food guide.
Official websites
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Hours, prices and rules can change. Check the official websites for the latest before you go.
Places in this story
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