The short answer

Islands, but still "Tokyo"

• The Izu Islands and the Ogasawara (Bonin) Islands in the Pacific south of Tokyo are all part of the Tokyo Metropolis. Ogasawara is about 1,000 km from central Tokyo.
• Cars on the islands carry "Shinagawa" license plates, the same as in central Tokyo — a fun detail to spot.
• Each island has its own dialect, food and festivals, a world away from the city.

How to take the ferry or plane

Your departure point: Takeshiba Passenger Terminal

Every ferry to the Izu and Ogasawara Islands leaves from Takeshiba Passenger Terminal (1-12-2 Kaigan, Minato City), a harbor on Tokyo Bay right next to central Tokyo.

• Takeshiba Station (Yurikamome line): about 1 minute on foot — the closest
• JR Hamamatsucho Station, North Exit: about 8 minutes on foot (Yamanote and Keihin-Tohoku lines)
• Daimon Station (subway): about 10 minutes on foot (Toei Asakusa and Oedo lines)
• From Haneda Airport, take the Tokyo Monorail to its last stop, Hamamatsucho, and walk from there.

• The terminal has a waiting room, coin lockers, shops, a restaurant, an ATM and free Wi-Fi.
• There's also "Tokyo Ai-land," a shop selling island specialties — a good first taste of the islands.
• You need to check in, so arrive at least 30 minutes before departure.

Choosing between ferry and plane

1. Book your ferry on the Tokai Kisen website (available in English).
2. On the day, arrive at Takeshiba Passenger Terminal a little early and collect your ticket.
3. Overnight ferries have a shop and vending machines, and some classes can rent blankets.
4. On arrival, take your lodging's pickup or a local bus from the port.

Izu Oshima: volcano and camellia island

Home to the active volcano Mt. Mihara, the whole island is a geopark.

Mt. MiharaWalk around the summit crater through rugged lava fields that feel like another planet.

Ura-sabaku (the "back desert")A plain of black volcanic sand — the only place marked as a "desert" on Japan's official maps. (Photo: black sand slopes of Mt. Mihara.)

Giant strata cross-sectionStriped volcanic layers run for about 800 m along the road, nicknamed the "Baumkuchen."

Camellia FestivalThe island is famous for camellias, celebrated each winter to spring at the Izu Oshima Camellia Festival.

Cycling around the island

• The loop road around the island is about 46 km, with few traffic lights and views of the sea and the volcano.
• It's hilly, so an e-bike is a great choice. You can rent bikes near the ports.
• Even a short ride along the coast is a treat.

Niijima, Shikinejima and Kozushima: sea, hot springs and stars

Habushiura Beach, NiijimaAbout 6.5 km of white sand, famous for surfing and surf contests.

Moyai statues, NiijimaStatues carved from local "koga stone" stand all over the island. Koga stone is said to be found only on Niijima and Italy's Lipari. The one in the photo is the Moyai statue at Shibuya Station, a gift from Niijima in 1980.

Yunohama Onsen, NiijimaA seaside open-air bath shaped like an ancient Greek temple. Free and open 24 hours (swimsuits on).

Jinata Onsen, ShikinejimaA natural hot spring in a rocky cleft, mixed with seawater; the temperature changes with the tide.

KozushimaIn 2020 the whole island became a Dark Sky Park, the second in Japan. Expect a sky full of stars.

Mikurajima: swim with wild dolphins

• Wild dolphins live around the island, and you can join guided dolphin swim tours, roughly from spring to autumn.

Hachijojima: the tropical side of Tokyo

About 55 minutes by plane from Haneda, this warm island is lined with palm trees.

Hachijo-fujiThe island's symbol. The walk around its summit crater, "Ohachi-meguri," is a favorite.

Shimazushi (island sushi)Fish marinated in soy sauce on slightly sweet rice, with Japanese mustard instead of wasabi.

Ashitaba and kusayaAshitaba, a hardy green said to sprout again by "tomorrow," and kusaya, a famously pungent dried fish. (Photo: kusaya.)

Winter whalesHumpback whales visit from winter to spring, and can sometimes be seen from land.

Kihachijo silkA traditional silk woven in yellow, brown and black, prized since the Edo period. (Painting: "Kihachijo" by Takehisa Yumeji, 1931.)

Glowing mushrooms"Yakoutake," mushrooms that glow green in the dark forest, on display year-round at the visitor center. (Photo taken at Hachijojima's botanical park.)

• The island has many seaside hot springs, easy to stop at on a drive.

Aogashima: a volcano inside a volcano

Double calderaA small volcano, Maruyama, sits inside a larger crater — a landscape rare anywhere in the world.

HingyaVolcanic steam rising from the ground. Use it to steam vegetables and eggs, or try the geothermal sauna.

Ogasawara: 24 hours by sea to a Tokyo paradise

There's no airport — just a ship that takes about 24 hours from Takeshiba. People still keep coming back.

Chichijima"Bonin Blue" sea and white beaches. The islands became a World Natural Heritage site in 2011.

Ogasawara MaruThe ship links Takeshiba and Chichijima in about 24 hours. It usually sails about once every six days, so a trip takes around six days at the shortest.

Whale watchingHumpback whales from winter to spring (best February to April), and a chance of dolphins all year.

🌺

A unique historyThe first settlers came from the West and the Pacific islands. After the war the islands were under US administration, returning to Japan in 1968.

• From Chichijima, the Hahajima Maru takes about 2 hours to quieter Hahajima.

More ways to enjoy the islands

Island travel tips

• Shops and lodgings are limited. Book your stay early, especially for the summer holidays.
• Some island shops take cash only, so bring a bit more cash than usual.
• Getting around is by bus, rental car or rental bike. Buses are infrequent.
• Ferries may not sail in bad weather. Leave room in your schedule.

Official websites

• Tokai Kisen (ferries to the Izu Islands)
• Ogasawara Kaiun (Ogasawara Maru, Japanese)
• Island ferry and flight status (Tokyo)
• Izu Oshima Navi (Oshima Tourism Association, Japanese)
• Niijima Tourist Information (Japanese)
• Kozushima stargazing (Japanese)
• Mikurajima Tourism Association (Japanese)
• Hachijojima Tourism Association
• Aogashima Village (Japanese)
• Ogasawara Village Tourism Bureau
• Tokyo Ai-land Shuttle (helicopter, Japanese)
• New Central Air (flights from Chofu, Japanese)
• GO TOKYO: Izu & Ogasawara Islands